Dedication

To my elder sister Late Usha Devi,

a devotee of Lord Jagannatha.

FOREWORD

Puri is considered as one of the most sacred places in India being the abode of Lord Jagannatha. Among the four centres of sacred places of pilgrimage in India (Chaturdhamas), Puri is not only the most famous in eastern India but also the first one to be established by Adi Shankracharya as a centre of wisdom and devotion. Adi Shankaracharya, one of the wisest and most well known philosopher of the world (considered an avatara of Lord Shiva) visited Puri in the 9^th century CE and established Gobhardhana matha in its tradition and composed the famous Jagannataatakama - worship of Lord Jagannatha in eight stanzas of immortal poetry.

Lord Jagannatha is most mysterious amongst all the gods in Sanatana Dharma. He is the manifestation of the Supreme Brahma. Everything about Him is extremely fascinating and mysterious. He is the only one who is worshipped along with his siblings - His elder brother Balabhadra and younger sister Subhadra and not with His consort goddess Lakshmi. He is the only god worshipped in all major faiths and traditions existing in India since ancient times.- tribal (adibashi), vedic [vaishnavites (followers of lord Vishnu), shaivites (followers of lord Shiva) and shaktas (worshippers of Devis and followers of tantra cult)]. He embraces in His daily rituals the practice of worship of all major faiths in Sanatana Dharma.

I am grateful to Colonel (Retired) JC Mahanti for requesting me to write a brief Foreword for this wonderful book “The Saga of Jagannatha and Badadeula at Puri”. Colonel Mahanti has rendered an immense service and done a commendable job in writing this unique book on Lord Jagannatha. He has painfully collected many lesser known facts about Lord Jagannatha, His rituals, traditions, costumes and festivals. He has made an in-depth study and done a lot of research on Lord Jagannatha and His traditions. The book is concise and heavily illustrated yet comprehensively lucid and profound in its approach on the subject. Undoubtedly, it is highly informative and interesting to the reader and is one of the most comprehensive books on Lord Jagannatha in the English language.

Lord Jagannatha is a vast subject. There are not many books or treatise on Him as this one. I have been requested by many publishers to write such a book in English but I could not do so for lack of time and my basic laziness in doing research into the most mysterious facts of Lord Jagannatha. I am really thankful and grateful to Colonel Mahanti to have achieved what I could not. I am sure every reader of this book will enjoy reading it as much as I have enjoyed it.

May Lord Jagannatha bless Colonel Mahanti for his pious endeavour in writing His glory and story about His wonderful manifestation at Puri.

KP Mishra

Dr. Kabi Prasada Misra
MBBS,MD,FACC,FRCP(Glasgow),DSc
Director of Medical & Training
Sr.Cardiologist
Apollo Hospital
Sainik School Road
Bhubaneswar 5, Odisha, India

Note: “With grief we would like to mention that Dr. Misra passed away on Mar 15^th 2014 before the book could go into publication. The author and the publisher pray to lord Jagannatha for the peace of his soul.”

PREFACE

Lord Jagannatha and His temple Badadeula are vast subjects. There is no dearth of books, treatise, literature, and articles (both ancient and contemporary) in various languages on them. Still their history is shrouded with mystery.

This book describing about lord Jagannatha, Badadeula - His temple at Puri and few of His important festivals was initially compiled in the form of a small handout for one of my friends¹ and his wife who visited Puri some time back. Anticipating that they might enquire about lord Jagannatha and Puri, I hastily scribbled a sketchy note on the subjects for their use. A few days later, when Lieutenant General (Emeritus) Gautam Banerjee PVSM, AVSM, YSM, called on me and asked me to accompany him to Puri to see the recently constructed Army Holiday Home (with his initiative while he was the Chief of Staff, Central Command), I casually showed him these notes. He liked it and asked for a copy for keeping in the Holiday Home for information of the visitors. Instead of giving him the hastily compiled sketchy notes, I thought of revising and including some additional information about Jagannatha, His temple at Puri and few of His important festivals like the Chandana yatra, Snana yatra, Ratha yatra and Nabakalebara etc. Little did I then imagined that it would take this shape and contain not only the accounts of Jagannatha and His temple but also various legends, tales and anecdotes associated with them that many might be interested to know.

This book is for general reading and not a historical treatise. Many of the descriptions and anecdotes in it are from Vedas, Mahabharata, Ramayana, other puranas and epics, legends, folktales and published articles that I learnt from time to time while discussing with others. They may not have any historical relevance or epigraphic evidence but exist since time immemorial. Apart from dealing on the main subject, a brief description about Puri city, its people and places of interest around it are included for general interest of the visitors.

In writing the text, I have used many words and phrases from Sanskrit and Odiya languages and also from colloquial local dialect to covey sense as they mean. While doing so, I have given their meaning by their sides to the extent possible. To appreciate and understand their nuances better, one may ascertain from the person using them.

While compiling the book, I received help and encouragements in many forms from my peers - Dr. Sarat Chandra Pujari D.Litt, Prof. Shitikantha Mishra Ph.D, Dr. Bijoy Kumar Rath Ph.D, Shri Subas Kar, Shri Bikasbihari Bishwal OAS (Retired) and last but not the least Dr. Kabi Prasad Misra Director of Medical & Training and Senior Cardiologist². All of them are knowledgeable about Jagannatha and the temple. I gratefully acknowledge their suggestions which dispelled many of my doubts and misconception.

I am especially indebted to Dr. Kabi Prasad Misra, who is not only a great devotee of Jagannatha but also a renowned writer who has in-depth knowledge about Jagannatha and His cult. Despite his busy schedule as an eminent cardiologist, socio-religious leader and a voracious writer on Jagannatha cult and Bhanja Sahitya, he found time to go through the entire manuscript and suggested many valuable facts for inclusion. I am also thankful to him for writing the Foreword.

Shri Bikasbehari Bishwal OAS (Retired) has taken lot of pains in editing and correcting the typographical errors and omissions while suggesting several improvements in the layout, format and getup of the book. I express my whole hearted gratitude to him.

I thank General Banerjee for his suggestion to convert the sketchy handout into a book. Otherwise, it might not have taken this shape.

I also thank M/s Vij Books India Pvt Ltd for undertaking publication of the book.

Lastly, I bow before Lord Jagannatha for His blessings enabling me to write about Him and His deeds.

Colonel (Retired) JC Mahanti
Bhubaneswar
Saka 19 36, Akshya trutiya

Sri Jagannathastakam
(Composed by Adi Shankaracarya)

(1)

Kadachit kalindi-tata-vipina-sangita-kabaro
Mudabhiri-nari-badano-kamala-swada-madhupa
Rama-Sambhu-Brahmamarapati-Ganeshajirta-pado
Jagannatha svami nayana-patha-gami bhava-tu me.

(Sometimes in great ecstasy, He makes a concert playing His flute in the groves on the banks of river Kalindi. Like a bumblebee He tastes the lotus-like faces of damsels of Vajra. Great personalities like Lakhmi, Shiva, Brahma, Indra, and Ganesha worship His feet. May that Jagannatha Swami be the object of my vision.)

(2)

Bhujo sabhye benum shirasi shikhi piccham kati tate
Dukulam netrante sahare-katashyam cha vida-dhat
Sada shrimad-vrindabana vasati lila parichayo
Jagannatha svami nayana-patha-gami bhava-tu- me.

(In His left hand He holds a flute. On His head He wears peacock
feathers. On His hips He wears fine yellow silk cloth. From the
corners of His eyes He casts sidelong glances upon His loving
devotees. He always reveals Himself through His pastimes in His
divine abode of Vrindavana. May that Jagannatha Swami be the
object of my vision.)

(3)

Mahamodhestire kanaka-ruchire nila-sikhare
Vasan prasadantah sahaja-Balabhadrena balina
Subhadra madhyastha sakala sura seba vasarado Jagannatha
swami nayana-patha-gami bhavatu me.

(On shore of great ocean, in a large palace atop brilliant
Nilachala hill, He resides with His powerful brother Balabhadra
and His sister Subhadra, who sits between Them. He bestows all
opportunity for devotional service upon all godly souls May that
Jagannatha Swami be the object of my vision.)

(4)

Krupa parabarha sajala jalada shreni ruciro
Rama Vani soma sthrudamala-padmobava mukhye
Surendrei aradhya shrutigana-shikhod gita rachito
Jagannatha swami nayana-patha-gami bhava tu me.

(He is an ocean of mercy and as beautiful as a row of blackish
rain clouds. He is the storehouse of bliss for Laksmi and
Sarasvati, His face resembles a spotless full-blown lotus. Best
of demigods and sages worship Him and Upanisadas sing His
glories. May that Jagannatha Swami be the object of my vision.)

(5)

Ratharudho gacchan pathi milita-bhudeva-pataleyi
Sthru-pradurbhavam prati-padam upakarnya sadaya
Daya-sindhur bandhu sakala jagatam sindhu-sutaya
Jagannathah swami nayana-patha-gami bhavatu me.

(When He moves along the road in His chariot during Ratha Yatra, at every step large assemblies of brahmins loudly chant prayers and sing songs for His pleasure. Hearing their hymns, He becomes very favourably disposed toward them. He is the ocean of mercy and the true friend of all the worlds. May that Jagannatha Swami, along with His consort Laksmi, who was born from the ocean of nectar, be the object of my vision.)

(6)

Parambrahmam pidaham kubalaya dalot phulla nayano
Nivaso Nniladrau nihita-charano ‘nanta-shirasi
Rasanando Radha-sarasa-ba pulangina sukho
Jagannatha swami nayana-patha-gami bhavatu me.

(With His eyes like lotus petals, He is the ornament on Lord
Brahma’s head. He resides on Nilachala Hill with His lotus feet
placed on the heads of Ananta. Overwhelmed by the mellow of
love, He joyfully embraces Radha’s body, which is like a cool
pond. May that Jagannatha Swami be the object of my vision.)

(7)

Na bai prathyam rajyam na cha kanaka-ta bhogo vibhavam
Na yachyahm ramya nikhila jana kamyam bara-badhum
Sada yache kale prathama patina gito-rachito
Jagannatha swami nayana-patha-gami bhavatu me.

(I do not pray for a kingdom nor for gold, rubies, or wealth. I do
not ask for a beautiful wife as desired by all men. I simply pray
Him whose glories Lord Shiva always sings May that
Jagannatha Swami be the object of my vision.)

(8)

Hara twam samsaram druta-taram saram surapate
Hara twam papanam bidhitim param yadavapate
Aho Dinanathah nihitamachaja patumanishn
Jagannatha swami nayana-patha-gami bhavatu me.

(O Lord of the demigods, please remove this useless material existence quickly that I am undergoing. O Lord of the Yadus, please destroy this vast, shore less ocean of sins. Alas, it is certain that He bestows His lotus feet upon those who feel themselves fallen and have no shelter in this world but Him. May that Jagannatha Swami be the object of my vision.)

Jagannathaishtakam punyam ya pathet prayatashuci
Sarva-papa-vishuddhatma vishnu-lokam sa gacchati

(The self-retrained virtuous soul who recites these eight verses
glorifying lord Jagannatha becomes cleansed of all sins and duly
proceeds to lord Vishnu’s abode.)

Pic - 1. Map of Puri city
(Not to scale)

PURI - THE HOLY CITY

General location

Situated about sixty kilometres from the state capital Bhubaneswar of Odisha, Puri is one of the important Hindu holy places on the shore of Bay of Bengal. It is one of the seats of lord Vishnu who is worshipped here as Jagannatha in Badadeula (temple as popularly called). There are also many ancient temples, mathas (monasteries), ashramas (hermitages), and religious institutions in and around the city.

The city attracts large number pilgrims and devotees through out the year. The congregation peaks during annual Ratha yatra (Chariot festival) held during month of July/August each year and also during other annual festivals like Chandana yatra, Snana yatra etc. and on Nabakalebara (transmigration into a new body) held after every twelve years or so.

Ancient names of Puri

In Sanskrit, the word “Puri” means location e.g. Indrapuri. In vedas and puranas like Rigveda, Matsya purana, Brahma purana, Narada purana, Padma purana, Skanda purana, Kapila samhita and Niladrimohodaya etc. the place Puri is referred in various names, some of which are as follows: -

Purusha-mandapa-grama: - It is mentioned in Rigveda that long ago, the place was a small hamlet called Purusha-mandapa-grama where Purusha (creator of the universe - Supreme Divinity) was worshipped on a mandapa (altar) near the sea shore and prayers from the vedas (four ancient Hindu scriptures) were offered to Him. Nearby, there were the ashramas of great sages like Bhrigu, Atri and Markandeya etc. In course of time, Purusha-mandapa-grama was called Purushottamapuri (later shortened Puri) and the Purusha became Jagannatha.

Nilachala: - The most ancient name of the place “Nilachala” (Blue mountain) was perhaps due to the huge sand lagoon on which the present temple of Jagannatha stands. However, this name is not in common use now.

Che-li-ta-lo, Charita and Chattar: - Chinese pilgrim Hiuen Tsang in his travelogue refers Puri as Che-li-ta-lo. According to renowned archaeologist Cunningham³, its ancient name was Charita which could be a distortion of Che-li-ta-lo mentioned by Hieun Tsang.

Purushottamakshetra: - The Nagri Plate of Ganga king Anangabhimadev III (1211-38 CE) mentions that after construction of present temple and installation of the idol of Purushottama (referring to Jagannatha) by Ganga king Chodagangadev in the 11^th and 12^th century CE, the place came to be known as Purushottamakshetra. Thus Kshetra added as suffix to Purushottama could be a further distortion of Charita.

The Moguls, Marathas as well as the early British rulers referred the place as Purusottama-chhatar or only Chhatar in their official records. This could be another distortion of suffix “kshetra” of Purushottamkshetra; may be due to phonetic problems.

Purushottama: - The name Purushottama-kshetra was later shortened and the place was called only Purushottama. The Ain-i-Akbari issued by the Mogul emperor Akber describes the place as only Purushottama and subsequent Moslem historians referred likewise; omitting the suffix. In the Sanskrit drama Anargha Raghava Nataka written by Murari Mishra in the 9^th century CE, the place is also referred as Purushottama. Even today, many call it Pur-so-tam which is a phonetic distortion of Purushottama.

Modern names

Until the 10^th or 11^th century CE, when the present temple was not built, the name Jagannathapuri or Puri did not exist and the place was known as Purushottamakshetra or simply Purushottama.

Now it is known by many names after the names of its established deity Purushottama or Jagannatha and also on the geographical features or importance of the place. Some of these are as follows: -

(a)  After established deity - Shreekshetra, Purushottamakshetra, Purushottamdhama, Purushottam-puri, Jagannathadhama and Jagannathapuri. Puri is the shortened form and most commonly used name.

(b)  After geographical features - Niladri, Nilachala, Nilachalakshetra (based on the blue mountain concept) and Shankhakshetra (for the right handed conch shell shape of the place).

Early inhabitants

It is said that long ago Puri and its adjoining areas were dense forests inhabited by aboriginal tribes e.g. sabaras, kandhas and mundas etc. who predated the Dravidians and the Aryans. Various epics and puranas (ancient mythological treatise) describe that the sabaras were worshipping their god as legendry Neela Madhav (Blue Krishna) who later came to be known as Jagannatha.

Now Puri is a cosmopolitan city and people belonging to all sects, religions and races reside. Here one finds people from different parts of the country and also the foreigners residing permanently.

Puri as Dhama

Because of its ancient religious sanctity, Puri became an important religious centre for the Hindus. For its religious importance, Adi

Shankarachrya visited Puri in 810 CE and established Goverdhana matha Since then, Puri has gained special significance as one of the four Dhamas (divine sites) of Hindus. (Here, one of the four Jagatguru Shankaracharya resides.)

About the four Dhamas, it is believed that lord Vishnu dines at Puri, bathes at Rameswaram, sleeps at Dwaraka and meditates at Badrinath. It is also said that pilgrimages to Dhamas are not complete without making to Puri.

Following Adi Shankarachrya, many spiritual leaders and religious preachers of different faiths and cults visited Puri from several parts of the country seeking divine blessings. Some even established mathas and ashramas signifying religious and spiritual environment of the place. Notable amongst them are Jayadeva, Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, Thakur Haridas, Babajee Radharaman Dev etal. from Nawadipdham of Bengal, Saint Kabir and Guru Nanak from North India (Uttar Pradesh and Punjab), Acharya Ramanuja from South India (Tamilnadu) and Namdev and Ganapati Bhatta from West India (Maharastra and Karnataka). Guru Nanak established Bauli matha which is now known as Bauli Saheb gurudwara.(Sikh religious temple).

Accessibility

In earlier days, there was no proper road to Puri. Pilgrims and devotees, both within and outside the state, walked on the beaten tracks through hills and forests facing many hazards. Affluent ones travelled on horsebacks or in palanquins. Those from North India travelled up to Calcutta (Kolkata) using riverine course in the river Ganges and thereafter on foot, horseback or palanquin. Often, they were prey to the thugs (wandering robbers and assassins) and the wild animals.

Around 1790 CE during the Maratha rule, the famous Jagannatha sadak linking Bengal with Puri was constructed. A hundred years later, the British East India Company laid the railway line from Calcutta to Puri and the first passenger train to Puri rolled out in 1898 CE. These made the journey safe and less cumbersome.

Now things are different. Puri is well connected by the air, rail and road to many places of the country. The nearest airport is Bhubaneswar from where air services to important cities are available. From airport, one can hire a taxi or travel by train or bus to Puri. It is connected by rail to most places with direct train services to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai and Ahmedabad etc. Regular and frequent buses are available to all cities and important places within and out side the state from the bus stand near Gundicha temple.

Cycle rickshaws, auto rickshaws and taxies are the local mode of conveyance. They are readily available but at negotiated rates. Since vehicles are not allowed right up to Badadeula, the Temple Administration provides shuttle mini-bus services from the vehicle park to Badadeula and back at a nominal charge.

Climate

Puri has a moderate climate. The maximum and minimum temperatures during the summer and winter months are around 36⁰ and 17⁰ Celsius respectively. It is humid most of the year. However, due to cool sea breeze blowing through out the day, the heat is not much experienced. Best time to visit Puri is between October to April although there is rush of pilgrims and devotees through out the year particularly during Ratha yatra and other festivals.

Since 1913 CE when Odisha was part of Bihar state, Puri was the summer residence of British governors who finding heat of Patna uncomfortable chose to spend the summer months in cooler environment here. Even after formation of Odisha as a separate state in 1936 CE, Puri continued to be the summer residence of governors till 1973. Now the Governor House is unoccupied and occasionally used by visiting dignitaries who stay during their visits.

Accommodation

There are a number of dharamsalas (buildings with rooms and dormitories for accommodation of pilgrims at no or nominal charges built by religious and philanthropic institutions and individuals), lodges, hotels and holiday homes of many government and private sector organisations including the recently constructed Army Holiday Home. They cater to the pockets of all classes of visitors.

About half a century back, when there were not many lodges and hotels in the city, pilgrims and visitors were staying either in the dharamsalas or with their ancestral pandas (priests or religious guides) in panda gharas (guest room of pandas). Now with the increasing number of lodges and hotels, the institution of panda ghara is progressively dying out though the dharamsalas exist.

Eating out

The Anandabazar (Divine refectory) within the precinct of Badadeula is the largest open air refectory where varieties of mahaprasada (food offerings to Jagannatha) is sold and eaten. Generally the pilgrims and devotees prefer to eat mahaprasada during their visit to Puri. However, the timings of availabity of mahaprasada is uncertain due to delays in religious rites and dhupas (rituals of offering prasada)

There are also large number of hotels, restaurants and eating places in the city catering to variety of cuisines for individual tastes. Along the beach, one finds many temporary kiosks and hawkers selling snacks and beverages.

Shopping

Curios, brass and bronze religious souvenirs like idols of deities, puja (worship) items, rudraksha and tulasi malas (garland of beads) and conch shells etc. are sold in shops and stalls all along Badadanda (Grand avenue in front of Badadeula) and also on the sea beach. There are also shops dealing with the gift items made of sea shells, papier-mâché, appliqué works of Pipli, patachitra (traditional paintings on cloth or palm leaf) of Raghurajpur and the famous handloom saris of Odisha.

It is customary to carry home a small saffron coloured cane baton, sukhuli (dry mahaprasada like khaji and laddu etc.) and nirmalya (sun dried rice mahaprasada) as souvenirs of visit to Badadeula and Puri. These are sold in the shops and stalls on Badadanda near Badadeula.

Puri as an administrative unit

Pre-independence period: - Under the Mogul rule (1592-1751 CE), the territory of Odisha extended from the river Suvarnarekha in the north to the lake Chilika in the south. For the purpose of revenue administration the Moguls divided the territory into three circars namely Jaleswar, Bhadrak and Kataka (Cuttack); each of which was subdivided into bishis. Puri formed a part of Kataka circar.

The Marathas, after occupation of Odisha in 1751 CE, brought out some changes in the revenue divisions. They divided the territory into four chakalas viz. (i) Pipli, (ii) Kataka, (iii) Soro and (iv) Balasore. The Pipili chakala comprised of the major portions of the present Puri district.

The conquest of Orissa by the British in 1803 CE set fourth great changes in revenue divisions and political relations. In June 1804 CE, Odisha was divided into two divisions namely the Northern and Southern division; the river Mahanadi forming the boundary. Two years later, both divisions were merged and formed into a province. Puri became the capital of the province till 1816 CE when it was shifted to Cuttack.

From 1813 to 1819 CE there was a Joint Magistrate at Puri with jurisdiction over Pipli, Gop, Hariharpur and Kiran thanas. In 1819 CE, this office was abolished and the office of Joint Magistrate of Khurdha was given the charge of above thanas.

In February 1822 CE, the province was again divided into two Divisions with river Baitarani as the dividing line. Puri became a part of Southern division under Cuttack district. Finally on 23^rd October 1828, the province was divided into three districts, namely Balasore, Cuttack and Jagannatha, (later named Puri).

In 1912 the new province of Bihar and Orissa was formed and later in 1936 CE Odisha became a separate province with Puri as one of the districts.

Post-independence period: -After the integration of erstwhile princely states with Orissa on 1^st January 1948, the feudatory states of Nayagarh, Daspalla, Khandapara and Ranapur were formed into a subdivision added to Puri district as Nayagarh subdivision. A fourth subdivision Bhubaneswar was added later on the 26^th January 1959. Thus old Puri district consisted of four subdivisions i.e. Puri Sadar, Khurdha, Bhubaneswar and Nayagarh. Further division of the district was made in 1995 CE when the Nayagarh and Khurdha subdivisions were taken out and made separate districts.

Cultures and traditions of Puri

Puri is one of the fascinating littoral districts of Odisha. Its culture and traditions predate recorded history and reflects the ethos of Odishan society. The numerous temples, mathas, ashramas, various festivals and above all, the religious faith and belief of the people depict the rich cultural heritage of the place and the people.

The people: - The local inhabitants of Puri are hospitable. They follow the Jagannatha cult - the cult of tolerance and universal brotherhood. People from different religions faiths and sects live together in harmony. They love good food and music. Ratha yatra, Chandan yatra and the Snana yatra etc. are some of the important festivals that enliven the religious spirit of the people. The people speak Odiya - the official language of the state, though Hindi, Bengali and English are widely understood.

Temples, mathas and ashramas: - As Puri is a confluence of various religions and sects, one finds here places of worship of many religions like Hinduism (including its sub-sects vaishnavites, shaivites and shaktas), Sikhism, Islam and Christianity etc.

Amongst the numerous Hindu temples in and around the city, Badadeula is the most renowned Vishnu shrine. Through out the year, it is visited by a large number of pilgrims and devotees from all over the country and also from abroad. It is one of the best examples of spiritual centre found anywhere in India. The uninterrupted worship of the deities for many centuries is in the grandest style imaginable. Fifty-six varieties of prasada (food offerings) are daily prepared and offered to Jagannatha.

Other important temples are Pancha Pandava temples (temples of Lokanath, Markendeswar, Kapalamochan, Yameswara and Neelakantheswara - all Shiva temples), Dakhinakali and Shyamakali temples, and Daria Mahavira and Siddha Mahavirs temples. Bauli matha is a very old Sikh gurudwara. There are also churches and mosques for Christian and Moslems respectively.

These temples present finest sculptures in stone depicting the various figurines of gods, goddesses, humans, animals, birds, reptiles, trees, creepers and flowers etc. artfully carved by local artisans following the Kalinga style of the temple architecture. Many of these artefacts, though presently disfigured due to vagaries of weather, still remind one of the art and craft of the ancient local artisans and craftsmen.

About mathas and ashramas, it is said that once there were seven hundred and fifty-two of them belonging to different religious faiths and cults. Over the years, their number has dwindled and now there are only a few. These mathas and ashramas have definitive association in the worship of lord Jagannatha by way of providing articles of worship and other services during different festivals as per the age old customs and traditions.

(Brief accounts of some important temples and mathas are given in Annexes I and II respectively.)

Religious festivals: - Through out the year, some festival or other is held in Badadeula and also in other temples in the city. In a lighter sense, it is said that there are thirteen festivals in twelve months. Chandana yatra, Snana yatra, Ratha yatra, Jhulana yatra, Shivaratri and Dussehera etc. are few of the important festivals celebrated in Badadeula and other temples in the city. In addition, amabasyas, purnimas and sankrantis are also observed in the temples and also by the individual devotees. These festivals not only depict the traditional heritage of the city but also have a strong religious character.

Cultural festivals: - In addition to the celebration of various religious festivals, cultural festivals in the name of Puri Beach Festival and Shreekshetra Utsav are held each year between November 5^th to 9^th and December 20^th to January 2^nd respectively. They present a variety of cultural programmes, unique sand art, exhibition of local and traditional handicrafts and many mouth watering savouries.

To encourage the local youths and young artists to display their skills and talents, District Council of Culture organises cultural programmes for two hours in the evening on every second Saturday of the month at the Collector’s Conference Hall (near Sea Beach Police Station). The majestic Odisi dance, the lucid Odiya songs, enchanting folk dances and other cultural items are the themes in this programme. (There is no entry fee for this).

The Jagagharas: - Little known to many are the Jagagharas-the other traditional cultural institutions of Puri. It is a place for learning martial arts and gotipua dances by local youths and is linked to body building, wrestling, and music. It is strictly for the boys and it is believed that shadow of women should not fall on them while undergoing the training. Traditional wrestling and musical equipments such as wood of different sizes like mudgara (wooden mace), phulka (platform for wrestling) and musical instruments like madala, dhola mrudanga and harmonium etc. are available in the Jagagharas. Open space for wrestling, a temple and a tank are mandatory. In the temple, lord Mahavira (Hanuman) who epitomizes physical strength and celibacy is worshipped. The tank is used for bathing after hard physical exercises and wrestling.

As per the records of 11^th century CE, during the reign of Chodogandadeva many forts (kothas), bastions and Jagagharas were built to safeguard the city and Badadeula from invaders. At that time the Meghanada pachiri surrounding the temple complex was not built and it was the duty of the inmates of Jagagharas to protect the city and the temple.

The inmates of the Jagagharas are called sangas (friends or mates). Here they learn kusti (wrestling) and other forms of martial arts. There are one or more Jagagharas in a sahi or busti (locality). The apex body of a group of Jagaghara is called Akhada

Sangas (inmates of Jagagharas) take part in Ratha yatra and Chandana yatra of lord Jagannatha, displaying various forms of martial arts and acrobatics with knives, swords, and fireballs etc in front of the pageantry for the entertainment of the deities and also general public. During Chandana yatra they perform these for the entire period of Bahara Chandana yatra.(twenty-one days. During Ramanavami, they enact Sahi yatras (street plays) for the entertainment of public.

In short, Jagagharas are the cultural centres and places of entertainments for the local youths where bhanga (taking hemp or cannabis), sanga (friends or mates), sangeeta (music), and pangata (feasting together) are all found.

(Local residents of Puri are fond of bhanga and city is known for it. Every evening, one can find people preparing various recipes of bhanga near the ponds and tanks.)

Sahi yatra: - Amongst the ancient and traditional cultural event of Puri are the Sahi yatras performed by the inmates of Jagagharas. Basically they are the folk dramas performed at street corners in different sahis (localities) in the city. Mainly, eight prominent sahis of the city display the yatra in their respective turns for eleven days from Ramanavami to Rama aviseka. The central theme of the yatra is of course the episodes from the Ramayana displaying the conquest of lord Rama over demon king Ravana. Besides these, martial art is also displayed. The night long yatra is witnessed by people from all over the places.

Odishi dance: - Another hallmark of city’s cultural legacy is the impressive and world famous Odissi dance - an art that has been perfected over the years. Puri is the birth place of Odishi dance. It was here that the Debadashis (Maharis) once danced in Natamandapa of Badadeula to please the deities. (The practice is now discontinued). Many of the Odishi exponents and gurus (instructors) are from Puri.

Sand art: - Though of recent origin, the sand art of Puri has caught international attention. One can find beautiful sculptures in sand depicting gods, goddesses, important personalities and events on the sea beach. Most of them are by amateur artists and their creation remains for a short time till they are washed away by sea waves. (Amongst sand artists, Shri Sudarshana Patnaik is known world over.)

Burning ghat: - Like Harishchandra ghat in Kashi, Swargadwara by the sea shore is the cremation ground in Puri to which people from far and wide bring dead bodies of their loved ones for cremation. Hindus believe that cremation at Swargadwara emancipates the departed souls and they attain moksha (salvation). The funeral pyre at Swargadwara can be seen constantly burning through out the day and night. (It is said that some five hundred years back Chaitanya Mahaprabhu disappeared through Swargadwara and was finally united with Jagannatha.)

Libraries and museums

A visit to the picturesque city of Puri opens up a treasure trove of cultural delights for visitors. The city also has several libraries and museums having various artefacts and documents related to the ancient culture of the place.

Raghunandana Library: - Located in the Emara matha complex (opposite Simhadwara) is the Raghunandan Library and the Jagannatha Aitihasika Gavesana Samiti (Jagannatha Historical Research Centre). The library has a good collection of ancient palm leaf manuscripts on Jagannatha, His cult and history of the city. The library is open to general public from 9 in the morning until 7 in the evening with a break between 1 to 4 pm on week days. One can have a good aerial view of temple complex from the roof top of the library. A notional fee is charged for entry to the library and the roof top.

District Museum:-District Museum located on Station Road also has more details about different costumes of Jagannatha, local handicrafts, sculptures, pata chitra and ancient palm leaf manuscripts.

Places of interest

Puri is one of the fascinating places in Odisha. Apart from its religious significance, numerous temples and mathas, its sylvan surrounding amidst jhaon (casuarinas) forest, picturesque beach, vast expanse of sea breaking waves and salubrious climate attract many domestic and foreign visitors for a sojourn or a holiday through out the year. Many prefer to spend the hot summer months in the cool and embracing climate of Puri. During these periods, hotels, lodges and guest houses remain over-booked.

The beach: - Amongst numerous beaches of India, the most enchanting one is at Puri. Its golden yellow sand, soothing sunshine, colourful sunrise and sunset and pleasant sea bath attract many visitors. Walking along the sea shore and watching roaring waves in the silhouette of sunrise or sunset are thrilling. One can spend hours on sea beach watching these natural phenomena besides skilful navigation of catamarans by fishermen and if lucky, view unique sculptures artfully created on sand by local sand artists. Apart from long walk on the beach, children can enjoy joyrides on camels or on horses.

Taking bath in sea is stimulating and refreshing. Sea is known for occasional under currents and there have been instances of bathers getting washed away. Therefore, while venturing for a sea bath, it is advisable to avail services of nolias (professional lifeguards cum fishermen) available at beach at negotiated price.

Around Puri: -As mentioned before, there are many places of historical interest and religious importance around Puri like the Sun Temple at Konark, Alarnath temple at Brahmagiri, Dolphin Park at Satpada and World Heritage Village at Raghurajpur; to name a few. In addition, one can enjoy a quiet vacation or a family holiday at Balukhand or on the banks of river Chandrabhaga near Sun Temple, Konark. Making Puri as the base, it is worth visiting those. They provide rest and relaxation from errands of routine life.

(Brief note about few places of interest is described at Annex - VI).

Invasion on Puri and Badadeula

In the tranquil history of Puri, there had been many ups and downs particularly after 14^th century CE. Both the city and Badadeula were invaded several times by yavanas (foreigners referring to Afghans and Moguls). Those were more for the lucrative wealth of Badadeula than for the jihad (religious war). In all these invasions, priests and servitors played an important role in safeguarding the idols. Kings, by default, took care of Badadeula from destruction by successful resistance or surrender.

It is notable that while at all other places like Ayodhya, Kasi and Mathura yavanas after destruction and plunder, have erected mosques over or by the side of Hindu shrines, it has not been the case at Puri. City and Badadeula have witnessed these ravages silently. All are due to the grace of almighty Jagannatha.

(Brief descriptions of the invasions are given in Annex VIII)

Pic - 2. Badadeula (Abode of Jagannatha)

Pic - 3. Badadanda (Grand avenue)

Pic - 4. Sunrise at Puri

Pic - 5. Sahi Yatra

Pic - 6. Language on Sand (Sand art of Puri)

1. LORD JAGANNATHA

Padyou-jashya dharantarikshymilamam
Navis-chu sarba-dishah
Stotre Netra-yugang Rabindu Yugalam
Mudra-pita dou Rashou

(His feet spread all over the universe. Boundless is His naval. All directions are His ears. Sun and Moon are His eyes and Heaven is His Head.)

Lord Jaganatha is worshipped along with Balabhadra and
Subhadra in the famous Badadeula at Puri.

Etymology of “Jagannatha”

”Jagannatha” is a compound word in Sanskrit formed by joining of two words - “Jagat” meaning the universe and “Natha,: meaning the lord or the master. Together they mean “The lord of the universe”. Jagannatha is thus a generic term and could be applied to any divinity that is considered supreme.

Sishu samhita mentions that Jagannatha is an acronym describing “‘Ja’ karastu Jagannatha, Balabhadra ‘Ga’ karakah, ‘Na’ kara Subhadra rupa cha, ‘Tha’ karapi Sudarshanah. (The four idols worshipped in Badadeula at Puri.)

In the local Odiya dialect Jagannatha is fondly addressed in many names.- Jagabandhu (friend of the universe), Kalia or Kalathakura (black god), Darubrahma or Darudebata (wooden divinity), Chakaakhi or Chakanayana (round eyed), Chakadola (round pupil), Padmalochana (lotus eyed), Debadhideba (lord of the lords), Mahabahu (having big arms), Jagadisha (king of the universe), Niladribihari or Nilachalia (resident of Niladri or Nilachala), Patitapabana (up lifter of the fallen) and Purushottama (supreme being) to name a few. Interestingly these names are mere adjectives describing the characteristic features of Jagannatha.

The English word “Juggernaut” meaning “a massive inexorable force that crushes everything on its path” is coined from the gigantic size and shape of the chariot of Jagannatha during Ratha yatra (chariot festival).

Origin and evolution of Jagannatha worship.

Like other gods and goddesses of the Hindu pantheon, no historical record or evidence is available as to when Jagannatha first appeared and was worshipped. Thus, His origin and evolution are shrouded in mystery. Many historians and research scholars have tried to solve the mystery but have not arrived at any definitive conclusion.

Taking various facts and circumstances described in vedas, puranas and epics and available history into account, it can be safely construed that Jagannatha worship in some form or other existed in erstwhile Udra (Odisha) region and most likely in and around present city of Puri. Vishnudhamotara¹ mentions ““Udreshu Purushottama” (Purushottama who resides in Odisha). There is also mention of Jagannatha and Purushottamakshetra in Indrabhuti’s Tantrajamala.

“Bhārate ca utkala deshe bhuswarge Purushottame
Dārumurti Jagannātha bhaktana bhayapradaha”

(The wooden divinity Jagannatha who lives in Purushottama, which is like a heaven on earth in the Utkala region of Bharata, burns away all the fears of His devotees.)

Vedic and puranic origin: - The ancient religious scriptures like vedas, Ramayana, Mahabharata and puranas mention about the worship of Jagannatha in some form in the context. According to these scriptures, the various incarnations and forms of the god and goddess worshipped in different religions are only manifestations of Jagannatha in different names e.g. Darubrahma (wooden divinity), Purnabrahma (total divinity), Parambrahma (supreme divinity), Paremeswara (supreme god) and Purushottama (supreme being) etc.

The epics describe Jagannatha as an avataree i.e. cause of avataras (incarnations) and not merely an avatara. He is worshipped as Purnabrahma (total divinity) from whom other avataras took birth and also as Parameswara (supreme god). Hence, it is argued that in the Dasaavatara² (ten incarnations) concept of lord Vishnu, Jagannatha does not find place as one of the avaataras.

The Odiya book Jagannatha charitramruta describes Jagannatha as follows: -

“Parambrahma Jagannatha avatari hetu jata
Koti-koti je avatara ethu huanti bahara.”